Rio de Janeiro – Day 03: Leaving on a Wet Early Monday Morning

Our roomies arrived at close to 5am. Still drunk and a bit noisy but more friendly this time. One even farted out loud and they all laughed. They were accompanied by an Asian looking girl, who, according to Daryl, said that her name Titi sounds funny in Filipino/Tagalog (tell me about it). The cab that would bring us to the airport was on time and we left the place. It was a damp morning, very sentimental.

There’s nothing much to do in the airport. We consumed most of the time shopping for souvenirs. It was very expensive but we’re just thankful that we can still get a shot glass (and a pair of Havaianas, a bottle of Cachaca, fridge magnets and more).

To sum up our two-day trip, let me just list down the spots mentioned in Top 10 – Rio de Janeiro from the DK Eyewitness Travel publishing:




(From top to bottom row, left to right: Cristo Redentor on top of the Corcovado Mountain, a glimpse of the Tijuca forest, the lower boulder of the Sugar Loaf Mountain called Morro da Urca, façade of Mosteiro de São Bento, Museu Nacional de Belas Artes, an orchid from Jardim Botânico, Praça XV, Praia de Copacabana and Ipanema and Leblon beaches)

1. Corcovado. Done. In case I’ll be going back to Rio, I wish to visit the view deck at night;

2. Parque Nacional da Tijuca. Partly done. We didn’t trek in the forest but the train went through it. Can be viewed from the top of Corcovado;

3. Sugar Loaf Mountain. Done. The cable ride alone is exciting;

4. Mosteiro de São Bento. Check. Book says it’s an example of Brazilian baroque. Beautiful church;

5. Museu Nacional de Belas Artes. Not done but we saw this from the outside. I even took a picture with it;

6. Jardim Botânico. Done. I agree with what the book says that it offers a haven of peace. I hope to have a cup of coffee there next time;

7. Museu Histórico Nacional. Not done. Maybe next time;

8. Praça XV. Done. When we say downtown Rio, I will always be reminded of this plaza sandwiched by old and new buildings;

9. Praia de Copacabana. Done. We strolled along the sand at night but did not experience it on a sunny day (with sunbathing and all); and

10. Ipanema and Leblon Beachlife. Done. Just like Copacabana, we hope to enjoy it next time on a sunny day.

I can say that Rio de Janeiro is a must-see city in South America (or even around the world). It’s a combination of white sand beaches, high mountains and numerous historical and cultural spots; a unique city I would conclude. Tom Jobim is definitely right when he said:

“New York is great but it is crap. Rio (de Janeiro) is crap but it is great.”

The rest of the departure pictures here.

Movie Digest # 081

X-MEN: FIRST CLASS
Movie Center – Montevideo Shopping, Sala 2, June 17, 7:00pm

It’s just OK for me for a superhero film. Nothing spectacular except for the retro feel. The very first installment is still the best. Great cast, by the way, especially with the presence of Michael Fassbender (“Fish Tank”) and Jennifer Lawrence (who did a very good job in last year’s “Winter’s Bone” and is expected to shine brighter in the film adaptation of “The Hunger Games”).

Friends who might appreciate it: Easy. Comic book fans.

TRANSFORMERS: DARK OF THE MOON
Movie Center – Punta Carretas Shopping, Sala C, June 30, 10:05pm

I didn’t mind the robots. It’s an attraction from the very beginning and we all know that. What I can’t forgive is the lifeless acting from Megan Fox’s replacement. What’s her name again? Saving grace is the scene with the real life gliders.

Friends who might appreciate it: The film doesn’t need any recommendation.

FAIR GAME
Movie Center – Montevideo Shopping, Sala 8 1/2, July 2, 10:40pm

Watch it only if you dig Sean Penn and Naomi Watts. That’s what I did. Or if you want to kill time. For me, the film is too generic. We’ve seen films of similar topic (US government, FBI and secret agents) and this one has nothing special to offer. I’ll probably forget this easily. It is that generic.

Friends who might appreciate it: Conspiracy addicts.

MIDNIGHT IN PARIS
Cines Hoyts – Punta Carretas Shopping, Sala 2, July 8, 10:15pm

When you watch a Woody Allen film, there’s always a character that is inclined to the arts and would probably deliver a line or two involving a performance space or an argument from a literary luminary. This is the realization of it all. Gil (Owen Wilson who could replace Mr. Allen as an actor anytime), who looks suffocated with the relationship to his wife (Rachel McAdams), suddenly transports to another era where he meets the likes Ernest Hemingway and Salvador Dali. The film is set in Paris (one of his films that explores European cities or anywhere outside the fences of New York) and what a fitting tribute to the City of Lights. It’s not stuck in the fantasy device which is a good thing. It still debates about the fragility and vulnerability of relationships which is a signature topic for the filmmaker.

Friends who might appreciate it: Those who love Paris (the city, not the celeb) dearly.

HARRY POTTER AND THE DEATHLY HALLOWS, PART 2
Newport Cinemas, Cinema 3, July 15, 10:45pm

Almost, almost love the film except for the epilogue. I don’t think the senior version of the ensemble is neatly done. They look like a caricature to me. Other than that, it’s a satisfying finale for a series that spans for close to a decade. I understand if the moviegoers, non-fans included, will be sad for the absence of the wizards. Feels like Daniel Radcliffe remains limited in delivering breakdown scenes though but all in all, the cast delivers big time.

Friends who might appreciate it: Fans of the franchise, no doubt (which is almost everybody).

CAPTAIN AMERICA: THE FIRST AVENGER
Movie Center – Montevideo Shopping, Sala 9, July 29, 7:55pm

Another generic film for me and I don’t think the presence of Tommy Lee Jones could salvage the whole thing. Sometimes it gets tiring when a superhero film excels too much to explore not another backstory. It leaves the meat of the film a little less exciting, something that you would probably enjoy in the sequels. I feel it’s well made but too bland like a fastfood chain hamburger.

Friends who might appreciate it: Same as those who saw the latest “X-Men” movie.

HORRIBLE BOSSES
Grupocine – Punta Carretas Shopping, Sala 4, August 6, 3:40pm

It’s a darker attempt to equal the success of the “Hangover” series though it’s more star-studded (Jennifer Aniston, Kevin Spacey and Colin Farrell who pulled a big surprise here, all portraying evil superiors). I enjoyed most of the wit like the one with the character trying to mock a sex-on-phone while in the middle of a car chase or the other classmate who’s moonlighting for blow jobs in a bar. The resolution may be trite and the execution is mainstream but it is still a good film best watched with friends over a bottle of beer and some pizza slices.

Friends who might appreciate it: Officemates.

CRAZY, STUPID, LOVE
Movie Center – Punta Carretas Shopping, Sala D, September 3, 5:00pm

It’s still a Hollywood film, complete with “eksena” scenes like the graduation scene in the end but it’s worth the guilt. It’s good to see Ryan Gosling do a light and no-pressure film along with the likes of Steve Carell and Julianne Moore. That guy has long been robbed with an Oscar and it won’t hurt if he gets one from something unexpected like this. The characters are endearing and the little silly scenes work for me: the playboy’s sexless night, the nanny catching the kid jerking off, etc.

Friends who might appreciate it: Those who think that Ryan Gosling peaks at “Blue Valentine”.

GREEN LANTERN
Movie Center – Punta Carretas Shopping, Sala C, September 3, 8:00pm

I can say that this is the most usual Hollywood film I’ve seen this year. It is lousy and very predictable, something that would not stir any creative (or logical) imagination. As for it being too basic, I believe it still has an audience (as most superhero films are). I don’t remember any scene now that could salvage the film. It gets worse when you feel bad seeing great actors Tim Robbins and Angela Bassett doing a small and insignificant role. Hollywood could be that cruel sometimes.

Friends who might appreciate it: La Sallista friends.

COWBOYS & ALIENS
Movie Center – Punta Carretas Shopping, Sala E, September 3, 10:20pm

For the storytelling (or even filmmaking) alone, I think the film is serviceable enough. It’s just that the material itself is boring. Cowboys saving the world from aliens? The idea is most likely to come up with a unique action film experience, something that we haven’t seen yet. Too bad, the output is severely alienating.

Friends who might appreciate it: I’d rather not recommend it, not to my expense.

COPIE CONFORME (CERTIFIED COPY)
Movie Center – Punta Carretas Shopping, Sala E, September 18, 4:40pm

I don’t think I’ve seen a lot of Abbas Kiarostami films but I wasn’t surprised that this is as talky as you can get. Compared to “Before Sunset” which is set in Paris, this film explores Tuscany which is equally romantic. There are only two main characters (the ever reliable and luminous Juliette Binoche and William Shimell) in the movie and how the story remains interesting mainly depends on them. The film may be taken as a romance film (thanks to the trailer) but it seems like it is making a statement on copycats and originality. Whatever the argument is, I didn’t bother considering. I saw the film version for the Spanish-speaking audience and I missed the details on the last few sequences including the twist. I just figured it out when the male character started to use a different language. Just the same, I still enjoyed it. Trust that Miss Binoche can always save a gloomy day.

Friends who might appreciate it: Calling all the Binoche fans. Unite!

SUPER 8
Movie Center – Montevideo Shopping, Sala 7, September 18, 7:50pm

It’s been a while since I saw a good film that champions the heart of a child. There’s one key scene here (spoilers, watch out!) where Joe (Joel Courtney) comes face to face (or is that nose to nose?) with the extraterrestrial. Prior to that, the viewers have already seen how well, though sad, the kid’s heart is amidst the death in the family. In that particular thrilling part of the movie, we know that Joe can surpass it, or deserving to surpass it at the very least. The era, by the way, is the 80’s where kids are kids and angst or malice is easily classified away from purity and innocence. There’s also the film appreciation part, which, I am not sure of would still be appealing to kids in the age of Twitter and Playstation. That alone is a statement in the movie’s make-believe part where a childlike determination can salvage the whole town from destruction. Plus, of course, it’s well acted and well directed. Its texture transports me back to the 80’s where the frames were not that crisp and CGIs were not that distracting and overpowering.

Friends who might appreciate it: Those who wish to reconsider Hollywood.

Buenos Aires – Day Zero: Buquebus Coucher Avec Moi Ce Soir

First things first. This trip was not on my plate before taking this onsite assignment leg. Of course I always wanted to visit Argentina as it is just a river crossing away from Montevideo. It’s just that we almost lost our hope on getting a visa. It took us more than a year (for Daryl, it’s two years) to finally get one.

On our first attempt to get a tourist visa from the Argentine consulate here in Montevideo, roughly half a year ago, they said no. We were asked to get it from the Philippines instead and that could mean as good as no-go because we don’t have enough time during our fly-backs to apply for one. Until one instance that we were asked to apply for another document that could serve as a temporary ID in Uruguay. To get that, I remember getting an NBI clearance and a consulate-authenticated birth certificate. That gave us a little hope as the Argentine consulate accepts it along with other supporting papers.

Using the temporary ID (others call it cedula), we were asked to obtain a police clearance here in Uruguay. Around two weeks or more ago, we woke up early just to avoid the queue (if there’s any) in a police station (looks like a satellite office of their NBI equivalent). One group got the first spot on the line and then we’re next. For 7:30am, it was close to empty. We showed our temporary ID, had a digital fingerprint (left index finger and right thumb), paid UYU 104 (or PHP 232) and got a receipt. Next process was to pick up the clearance in a different building after two days of processing.

The pick-up, we later found out, also means authentication. In the office that we’re asked to get it, we lined up for another queue and paid UYU 120 (PHP 268) more. From there, we proceeded to the Argentine consulate and submitted all the needed documents. We paid another USD 50 (PHP 2,118) for the visa processing and we were asked again to pick it up after three days (usually, it’s just two days but I think we hit a holiday then).

Finally, an Argentine tourist visa! And sadly, it’s valid for only a week. Having that limitation and some were bound to fly back already by middle of September, we ended up panic buying for a Buquebus (www.buquebus.com/) ticket for August 25 to 28 in less than a week prior. We got a return ticket for UYU 2,489 (or PHP 5,547). Needless to say, it could be half cheaper if we book it earlier.

Since we’re already here in Montevideo and Buenos Aires is just across Rio de la Plata, there’s nothing much to prepare on top of the paperwork. Let me just share our experience from the first part of the trip.

(Pictures from our ferry, inside and out)

Buquebus, as the name suggests, is a bus but it’s actually a bus and a ferry not a bus on a ferry. It has a terminal in the same place (Tres Cruces) where you can find all the other domestic buses. What’s probably new thing for us is the concept of checking-in for a bus trip. We were advised to be at the bus station as early as an hour before to get a boarding pass. There was a long queue when we arrived at 11:15pm and took us 15 minutes to get a piece of paper with detachable portions (one for the bus, for the ferry, etc.). From there, we lined up on another queue. This time it’s for the buses. That’s plural because practically, they need to transport all the ferry passengers (I don’t know the capacity of the ferry but it is huge enough) from the bus station to the port (which, by the way, is in Colonia or two hours away from Montevideo). Luggage bags were asked to be checked in right before we jumped into the bus. A staff was taking care of this and each piece was given with a corresponding sticker (just like in the plane). Since the luggage bags will go directly to Buenos Aires, I decided to skip this as I only brought my carry-on bag. It was already past 1am and I just slept during the bus trip.

In Colonia, we passed through the immigration booth. It’s funny to observe that there are two officers sharing the same booth. The first one is from Uruguay who will most likely bid you goodbye and wish you a nice trip and just beside him is from Argentina who is going to check your papers and will welcome you. In short, we got the stamp from the Argentine immigration while we were still in Uruguay (that’s new).

We waited for a couple of minutes more in an area upstairs. There’s one coffee shop there and I got myself a cup of café con leche. Passengers were starting to queue already as they wanted to get a better seat. We didn’t worry about this because the expensive ticket we got without a choice is in a less crowded area and seats are all comfy.

The Buquebus ferry that leaves at 4am-ish from Colonia is a big one. It has four levels and there’s an elevator to reach the topmost floor. Ground floor, I think, is for the most affordable seats and a duty-free shop. There’s another level for passengers then another level for the dock where people can roam around and do a Jack Dawson. The topmost level is where our seats are. It’s divided into two sections, one is the passenger area (lined-up with Lazy Boy-like seats) and the other is for the bar (some tables and chairs). There’s a complimentary snack (basically, a donut and a drink) and at around 5am, they turned off the lights. We woke up at sunrise and we rushed our way back to the dock to take pictures and get a glimpse of Buenos Aires from there. Good air indeed.

The rest of the arrival pictures here and a video here and here.


(A glimpse of our very first morning in Buenos Aires)

Buenos Aires – Day 01: Smile, You’re in Argentina!

(Left: Puerto Madero in the morning; Right: Some buildings in Buenos Aires during rush hour)

Fabricio, our colleague/friend, was already at the waiting area when we arrived. We didn’t notice the exact time (probably we’re too happy to notice it). Mike was stuck in the baggage claim area as a lot of passengers were waiting for their luggage, typical to having a plane ride. So if you’re in a hurry, you better not check in your carry-on bag and just bring it with you in the ferry. That is, of course, if the Buquebus staff allows you to do so. After 15 minutes or more, we were finally on our way to Puerto Madero. Daryl was shaking our hands, congratulating us for making it to Argentina.

Coming from Montevideo which is a laid back city, the first things you will notice in Buenos Aires are the tall buildings. Even though you can see it from the ferry, it’s different when you’re actually walking through the streets where the skyscrapers are located. There’s a charm when you see those modern buildings swamping the old and historic ones. In Puerto Madero for instance, walking from Buquebus station to the iconic Puente de Mujer, you can see modern office buildings on the other side of the canal (with body of water coming from Rio de la Plata) and some old buildings including the Casa Rosada on the right. There’s a long stretch of restaurants in there, housed in a brick orange-like building. In between blocks, there’s a yellow metal structure that looks like a crane to me. It adds a feel that the area is being constructed but in fact, those are more of an art piece. Beneath it, for instance, you can find a tourist information center.


(More snapshots from Puerto Madero)

We spent almost the whole morning strolling along Puerto Madero still with our bags on. It was that breezy and pleasant and we barely noticed the long walk we had. We stopped at Starbucks (the branch is very artsy and classy) and had breakfast (I got a miga which is your usual loaf bread sandwich without the thick/toasted crust) there then visited the Oracle office which are all on the other side of the canal. From there, we crossed the canal through Puente de Mujer, walked to Plaza de Mayo (where Cabildo and Casa Rosada can be found) and took the subway (very Rome-like) heading to a station near Avenida 9 de Julio. The iconic obelisk is right there. We crossed the widest avenue in the world (9 de Julio) through Avenida Corrientes then took a left at Avenida Libertad. A few more blocks of walking and we’re finally in our hotel.

Gran Hotel Libertad is nothing fancy. From booking.com, I just grabbed the cheapest hotel that is near the main avenidas (Corrientes and 9 de Julio) and had the nod from another Argentinean colleague/friend (Nestor). Libertad is a bit Ongpin-ish or Ronquillo-ish in the morning and very quiet in the evening (too quiet for a single traveler walking from Avenida Corrientes). What we got is a quadruple room with four beds separated by a door. The bathroom is in the room that Mike and I picked so we always see Daryl and Pao on their way to take a bath (or other business). Beds are just OK but we can’t fix our heater. It’s just fortunate that they have thick blankets. The closet has a mini-vault that could serve as a locker for the valuables. You just need to request for the lock and key from the reception area on the ground floor. It’s free but you need to sign a paper that looks like a disclaimer to me.

After a short break at the hotel, we headed to Diagonal Norte to get a ticket for the yellow tourist bus (the sign on the side says “Buenos Aires Bus”). One day of hop-on, hop-off costs Argentine Peso or ARS 70 (PHP 705) and ARS 90 (PHP 906) for two days. We got the latter. Since it is the Zero Stop, we had to wait for the designated time. This brought us to one big and very busy branch of Burger King along Avenida Florida for a late lunch.

We took a seat on the bus’ open top on the second level. For an afternoon August breeze, it was cold. I remember the bus stopping first at Plaza de Mayo. The English recorded tour wasn’t working well at first but they eventually fixed it. It’s good to appreciate the significance of the different old buildings along Avenida de Mayo and how they played in the city’s cultural and historic bustle.



(Top row, left to right: our hotel key, Buenos Aires tourist bus and Casa Rosada
Bottom row: Colorful walls of La Boca)

We availed of our first hop-off at La Boca (the rest of the pictures here). We walked through El Caminito which is a colorful cobblestoned street (literally as the walls are painted with different bright colors) with some locals selling some artwork or wearing a tango get-up for a paid photo opportunity. I was informed that tango was born in the area (and Madonna had her tango lessons there, too, for the filming of “Evita”). It’s a feast to the eye. In fact, the most number of pictures in my camera belong to this area. Some were dancing tango in front of the restaurants to attract customers and some were playing live music. One restaurateur even offered us to look at the little house inside the backyard where tables are set for some parrilla.


(Left to right: Iglesia Nuestra Señora de Belén, Mafalda and an antique shop)

We went back to the stop and hopped on to our next stop which is San Telmo. It’s another old neighborhood but not that colorful. We passed by an antique shop, paid Mafalda (an Argentine kiddie character who is also popular in Uruguay) a visit and had a crepe in one restaurant there. The rest of San Telmo pictures here and a fascinating video of a dynamic artwork here.

The rest of the evening was spent with more walking. Sure it was tiring but there are a lot of interesting spots (architecture, monument, little parks, etc.) to see along the way. It’s a treat that our hotel is near Avenida Corrientes which transforms into a Broadway-like atmosphere at night. I don’t know if you still remember the movie adaptation of “Evita” but in the track “Buenos Aires”, Madonna is seen dancing along this avenue. We capped the night with a nice dinner at Las Cañas which is a food haunt for the locals according to Fabricio. That’s where I had my first Argentine beef (the dish is called Bife de Chorizo) and it’s one of the best grilled beef dishes I’ve tried. Pictures of all our dinners in Buenos Aires here.


(Theaters along Avenida Corrientes)

The rest of the pictures here.